AAA October 2009 : Page 99 a vca By Sean Conneely Perched atop a treeless hill in Yellowstone National Park, a lone coyote surveyed the frosty winter landscape. Suddenly, the animal became agitated and, in a flash, sprinted through the knee-high snow. The reason for the coyote’s fl ight was clear a moment later when two wolves emerged from the pine forest. In hushed reverence, our tour group spent the next 20 minutes observing the wolves frolicking (yes, wolves can frolic), howling and pawing at an elk carcass. Incredibly, the spectacular scene played itself out not more than a football fi eld from our bus. One thing was clear: the wolves were back! This intimate sighting of Yellowstone’s newest resident, the gray wolf, was the highlight of the Winter Wolf Discovery Program. The three-day pro- gram is a joint venture between Yellowstone’s lodging conces- sionaire, Xanterra, and the Yel- lowstone Association, the park’s nonprofi t, educational partner. In the nearly 15 years since the wolves were reintroduced here, the canines have become star attractions, with the number of wolf-watching tours growing each year. The Mammoth Hot Springs A wolf follows a grizzly bear at Yellowstone National Park. area, in the northern section of the Wyoming park, served as base camp for our tour; howev- er, our destination each day was the vast expanse of the Lamar Valley. Yellowstone, specifically the Lamar Valley, has become the best place in the world for wolf watching, especially in winter. In large part this is because the valley receives less snow than the rest of Yellowstone, so bison and elk migrate here to forage — and the wolves follow. Wolf-watching tours start early, as the animals are more active just after sunrise. We criss-crossed the valley in search of wolves and other wildlife. Lamar Valley in winter offers other wildlife-viewing destinations for every budget! BOOK NOW! amazing 1-800-222-7448 • 34 local offi ces opportunities, including count- less elk and bison and perhaps a soaring golden eagle. At lunchtime, we stopped at the Buffalo Ranch, a collection of rustic buildings where the Yellowstone Association runs a wide variety of field classes. At the ranch, we learned that the wolf reintroduction was not Yellowstone’s fi rst major wild- life management project. In the early 1900s, the park’s bison herd had dwindled to a mere 26 animals. Park management brought domestic bison into the mix, and the intermingled herd was held at the Buffalo Ranch until it could sustain itself. After lunch, as we geared up for a snowshoe hike, two rival wolf packs entertained us with a DISCOVER THE AZORES Enjoy airfare from Boston and a boutique hotel stay in São Miguel Island for 6 nights at: • Hotel Talisman • Hotel Camoes • Hotel Do Colegio from $739* per person A pack of wolves makes its mark on the freshly fallen snow. A winter visit to Yellowstone National Park will give you lasting memo- ries of snowy landscapes, steaming geyser basins and incomparable wildlife viewing. A number of operators offer snowcoach and snowmobile tours and guided cross-country ski and snowshoe trips. Park rangers lead a variety of programs at Old Faithful Visitor Center, Mammoth Hot Springs’ Albright Visitor Center and West Yellowstone’s Visitor Information Center. For in- formation, visit www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/winteract.htm. 6 WINTER IN THE PARK resonant symphony of howl- ing. We learned that wolves howl for a reason, and our guide surmised that this exchange was probably a territorial dispute. A number of Yellowstone’s animals have benefi ted from the return of the park’s top preda- tor. As many as 11 birds and mammals — including grizzly bears — may feed on a wolf kill. The park has benefited, too. Wolf watchers, who hail from all over the globe, have proven to be a devoted group. Some track the movements of the wolves for days at a time, getting to the point that they can actu- ally identify individual wolves. A University of Montana study suggested that wolf watching brings more than $30 million to the region annually. Our last wolf sighting may have been the most poignant. Parked at a pullout in the val- ley, and armed with an array of spotting scopes, binoculars and camera equipment, we spied a pack of wolves crossing a ridge. We learned that on this very hillside, a century earlier, park rangers carrying rifles would shoot wolves because they were regarded as nuisance animals. The wolves were now back where they belong. They were home. 6 ESCAPE THE ORDINARY Experience an Unlimited-Luxury® all-inclusive vacation at Dreams Punta Cana Resort and Spa: • Amenity-fi lled rooms with ocean views • Spectacular array of day and evening activities • Gourmet dining and 24-hour room service • Supervised Explorer’s Club for kids 7 nights with air from $1,099* p.p. 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Offer is capacity controlled and may be modified or withdrawn without prior notice. Restrictions may apply. Rates valid for Tuesday departures only; for weekend departures add $120 per person. TNT Vacations: FAA-approved charter air via Miami Air International or similar carrier. Prices are per person based on double occupancy for new bookings only. Information is subject to change; prices are capacity controlled and subject to availability. Prepaid government taxes/fees of up to $138.40 (including September 11th Security Fee and Boston PFC), and late booking fee of $25 for all reservations made inside 21 days of departure are not included and are subject to change without notice. The Kids Stay Free promotion at Dreams Resort & Spa is valid for children 12 and under when staying in the same guestroom with 2 paying adults with travel before December 23, 2009. Offer can not be combined with any discount or offer and is based on space availability. 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TRA.6816.09 M-C AAA Travel EXCLUSIVE! s h e r CALL OF THEWILD On the Lookout for Wolves in Yellowstone o ti You r r t e . n st a Publication List |
